Chris and I went to Merlefest last weekend in Wilkesboro, N.C. This was our third year in a row at the music festival. The music was wonderful, as always, and we had mostly good weather. There was a fierce storm on Saturday, but fortunately for us, we were back at our campsite at the Wilkes County Family YMCA when the storm hit. We had gone back to the campsite to take down our canopy, which was damaged when it was blown over the day before. We had just finished putting it and some other things in our minivan when the storm hit. It was a little scary to ride out a thunderstorm in a tent, but everything turned out all right. We were relieved not to be in the middle of the festival during the worst of the storm.
One thing I like about Merlefest is discovering acts. This year's discovery was Old Crow Medicine Show, a string band with a rock attitude. I had heard of the band, but I had never seen the guys play. Perhaps I am a shallow music fan, but I was struck by the guys' cuteness as much as their music and their exuberance. I still have one of the band's songs stuck my head, "Wagon Wheel." You can see the band performing on "Austin City Limits."

We also saw one of our favorite young bands, Bearfoot, a group of 20-somethings from Alaska. We first heard the band at the Festival for the Eno a few years ago, and have seen it play at the Sharkori Hills Roots Music Festival. Again, I might be shallow, but I love the fact that these kids are rock-star good-looking as well as talented. I took the photo of the whole band, and was able to get a decent photo of Annalisa Tornfelt, who is the chief songwriter. The other members are, from left in the photo, Kate Hamre, Angela Oudean, Jason Norris and Mke Mickelson, who looks like Prince William. Mike, who plays guitar very well, also has matured into a wonderful singer. He did "Deep River Blues" and "Blue Yodel No. 1." But Annalisa's voice continues to be a wonder. The only problem with Bearfoot at Merlefest is that their sets were repetitive. We would have liked to see them branch out more -- maybe do some more covers of old bluegrass standards.
We enjoyed a set on the main stage called Docabilly, featuring Doc Watson with several others doing 1950s songs. The very best was "Sincerely." One of the players was piano player Jeff Little, who went to Appalachian State at the same time as Chris.
Another discovery was Polecat Creek, a duo from Greensboro who play old-time music with a modern folk feel. Kari Sickenberger and Laurelyn Dossett harmonize like angels, and they sing intelligent songs. Plus, they perform with a remarkable banjo (and every other string instrument) player Riley Baugus. I had heard Polecat Creek on WUNC radio briefly, but we hadn't heard the band play live.
The absolute best moment of Merlefest for me was on Saturday morning at the Creekside stage when Rhiannon Giddens of the wonderful Carolina Chocolate Drops sang "O Holy Night" with some of the players from Polecat Creek. Oh, my, it took my breath away! Many of us who heard her had tears in our eyes. It was truly transcendent. The Chocolate Drops were great every time we saw them play, and I was gratified to see them on the main stage with their musical mentor Joe Thompson. The Chocolate Drops are cute as they can be, and Rhiannon is an exuberant, charismatic performer. Pop-star good looks with intelligent old-time music -- what a combination! (Yes, I AM shallow!)
One highlight in the funky collaborations that Merlefest is known for was a Saturday afternoon session at the Hillside stage -- The Waybacks doing songs from "Led Zeppelin II" with John Cowan singing. Cowan was reading the lyrics as he sang, but man, oh, man, he could channel the rock 'n' roll squall with the best of them. Some videos have been posted on YouTube. Of course, none sounds as good as it really was.
We also enjoyed the Lovell Sisters, Laurie Lewis and the Right-Hand Band, Rhonda Vincent and the Rage, Levon Helm and the Rumble on the Road, and Bruce Hornsby and Ricky Skaggs with Kentucky Thunder. The Levon Helm set on Saturday night was more rock than we expected, but it did include songs from "Dirt Farmer," his old-time album. That set should have been billed as Larry Campbell with Levon Helm because the guitar player/producer Campbell really ran the show (and very well).
My snippet reviews don't do justice to the music of Merlefest. It's an overhwelming eperience in some ways. We don't have time and energy to see all the acts that we'd like to.
Here are my tips for Merlefest viewing:
- If you don't buy reserved seats at the Watson stage, set up a home base with your camp chairs in the Watson stage area. You can also spread out a tarp or a blanket, but be respectful and don't take up more space than you need. Look for a spot where you can see the main stage, the Cabin stage and the big screen. If you don't want people crawling over you all day and night, stay away from the aisles, but if you don't want to crawl over people, don't go too far in.
- You can sit in the reserved seats as long as the ticket holders are not there until 5 p.m. Take advantage of that in the early hours to get a good close-up seat for sets that draw less of a crowd.
- Take rain gear. A poncho is a good idea because you can spread it over your chair and your legs when you are seated. A day pack with your essentials is essential. You'll also need sunscreen and sun hats.
- Pack some very big garbage bags to put over your chairs when it's raining or threatening rain.
- Take a stadium seat or some other light portable chair to take with you to other stages. I have a small folding stool that I bought at Merlefest last year. It's not very comfortable, but it beats sitting on the ground for me.
- Pack snacks so you don't have to wait in line at the food tents. However, the food tents do have some good eating such as fried apple pies and apple fritters, among other things. It's not that expensive to eat at the festival, but you do save time if you carry in your own snacks. You can't carry in glass. Also, you can't have alcohol, which I think is a good rule.
- Carry a highlighter and mark the program with the acts you want to see. Get away from the big stage to see some lesser-known acts. Keep an eye out for the collaborations.
- Camping at the YMCA includes hot showers and clean facilities! The building has WiFi, and if you really need a break, you can even use the pool and fitness room. You can walk just a short distance from the Y camping to catch a shuttle bus to the festival.
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